Though this red is oaky, there's also a whole-cluster feel to it, with sandalwood and vegetal aromas synching with flavors of black currant and blackberry. Iron and sweet baking spices chime in as this plays out on the lingering aftertaste, showing fine balance. Best from 2026 through 2045.

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru comes from two parcels, the one towards the top of the parcel providing the 70% whole bunch. The nose is fresh, taut and quite mineral-driven with black cherries, raspberry and light rose petal scents. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine tension, quite poised with a bit of sinew towards the finish. It will require 4-6 years in bottle just to shave those edges, but I appreciate here the spicy aftertaste.