This is a stunner, offering a gorgeous core of black tea-infused cassis, plum reduction and raspberry puree flavors. Additional black licorice, black tea and incense notes emerge alongside the fruit on the long, lush, seductive finish, which is harnessed by a graphite frame. A very confidently rendered wine. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre. Best from 2024 through 2040. 10,000 cases made, 700 cases imported.

Coming in at 16% alcohol (like the 2016), the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape from Clos des Papes carries it comfortably, showing no sign of overt heat or overripeness. Hints of leather and crushed stone appear on the nose, adding a pleasant nuance to the somewhat monolithic black-cherry fruit. It shows less nuance and complexity than the 2020 at this stage but shows plenty of promise, as its concentration is matched by freshness and a long, reasonably elegant, finish. This will likely need some time to come around.