Give this a moment of swirling in decanter or glass until it unravels. When it does, it's an ever-changing specimen. The first thing you notice is a toasted-almond character- a smoky, nutty vibe that grounds the vibrant strawberry and cherry fruit. Then you notice the dried flowers and spice aromas: violets, roses, ground pepper, even thyme and mint. The palate is lightweight, ethereal, but, again, tethered by fine, talc-like tannins before it has time to fly away. Like this producer's other wines, Fusilier-the passion project of actor Sam Neill-is entirely complete and ready to drink now, but could also cellar for another five to seven years.

Shows white pepper and talcum accents up front, with precise, firming tannins that mingle with dried cherry and notes of blueberry preserves, tobacco, cedar and minerally crushed stone. Drink now through 2030. 380 cases made, 66 cases imported.