The G.D. Vajra 2020 Barolo Ravera reveals wild forest berry, cherry, licorice root and sweet summer fruit. The effect is focused or chiseled thanks to animating acidity and pinpoint fruit flavors. Located in the village of Novello, Ravera benefits from open panoramas and cooler temperatures from the mountains. These factors make this cru one of the most promising in this era of climate change. This is a Barolo for the purists.

The 2020 Barolo Ravera is a gorgeous, aromatically exotic wine that is going to need time to be at its best. Orange peel, spice, menthol and kirsch all lift from the glass, conveying a good deal of ethereal Nebbiolo beauty before the tannins kick in. There's gorgeous weight and substance here, in the mid- weight style of the year. More than anything else, I admire the balance.

A dense, compact version, with cherry and raspberry fruit accented by hay, thyme, iron and tobacco notes. Linear and lively, with mouthpuckering tannins framing the finish, this needs time for all its elements to come together. Best from 2029 through 2050.